For those dealing with acne, reconsidering your cleansing routine may be a natural step. But with so many options—from oils to gels—and conflicting information, it can be hard to know what truly helps. You might wonder if “cleansing oils make acne worse” or which types suit your skin best. Cleansing oils are often misunderstood, yet, when chosen and used correctly, they can reduce breakouts and support hydrated skin. This guide explains what causes acne, clears up myths about cleansing oils, and provides insights on selecting and using the right products effectively. Let’s uncover the potential of cleansing oils in achieving clear, healthy skin.
Contents
Acne Causes and Key Points for Choosing the Right Cleansing
Acne is a complex skin condition influenced by various factors, including age, hormone balance, stress, diet, sleep, and skincare habits. Although the contributing factors differ for each individual, acne generally develops and worsens through three main processes: clogged pores, excess sebum production, and the growth of acne-causing bacteria. These factors can also lead to a loss of moisture, resulting in dry and sensitive skin, which disrupts the skin’s natural renewal process. This cycle often causes acne to persist or worsen. When choosing a cleanser for acne-prone skin, it is essential to address these three underlying causes by selecting products that effectively cleanse pores while maintaining moisture on the skin’s surface. The right balance of cleansing power and hydration needs to match each individual’s skin condition and makeup habits. For those dealing with severe acne, consulting doctors for tailored advice is recommended.
Do Cleansing Oils Aggravate Breakouts?
The statement that "cleansing oils worsen acne" is a common topic in skincare discussions. In this article, we’ll examine the validity of this claim and explore how different cleansers impact acne-prone skin. Understanding the relationship between cleansing oils and acne begins with examining how various types of cleansers interact with acne-prone skin.
Cleansing Oils:
Cleansing oil dissolves makeup and excess sebum, providing a deep cleansing effect. However, it's important to note that certain types of oil may have an overly strong cleansing action, which can lead to increased sebum production and, as a result, clog pores.
Cream/Balm Cleansers:
Rich and moisturizing, cream and balm cleansers are ideal for dry skin but may leave an oily residue. For those with acne-prone skin, thorough rinsing is recommended to prevent pore congestion, as leftover residue can exacerbate acne.
Gel Cleansers:
Gel cleansers are generally lightweight and oil-free, making them effective for oily and acne-prone skin as they don’t clog pores. However, gel cleansers may sometimes lack the power to remove heavy makeup or excess sebum completely, so they may require a follow-up cleanse for those with intense makeup routines.
Milk Cleansers:
Gentle and hydrating, milk cleansers contain minimal oils and are suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin. However, to remove makeup thoroughly, using an additional cleanser may be necessary.
Each type of cleanser has its own characteristics and points to consider, especially for those with acne concerns, and these considerations are not limited to cleansing oils alone. Acne is often linked to oily, adolescent skin, which leads to the assumption that “increased oil production causes acne.” As a result, people may think “oil-based cleansers worsen acne.”
However, it is the “strength of cleansing power” in cleansing oils, rather than their oil content, that is more closely linked to acne aggravation. By choosing a cleansing oil with a balanced combination of “cleansing power” and “hydration” suitable for acne-prone skin, it can potentially contribute to clearer, healthier skin without breakouts.
Benefits of Cleansing Oil for Acne-Prone Skin
Cleansing oil is a type of facial cleanser that uses oil-based ingredients to remove makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum without stripping the skin of its natural moisture. The fundamental principle of oil cleansing is based on the idea that "like dissolves like." In other words, oil has a unique ability to break down oily impurities, such as sebum, makeup, and sunscreen, allowing them to be easily removed from the skin. Unlike traditional foaming cleansers, which may leave the skin feeling dry or tight, cleansing oils bind to these impurities, helping to rinse them away without disrupting the skin’s natural balance. This makes cleansing oils a beneficial option for those with acne-prone skin, as they support a balanced moisture barrier essential for managing breakouts.
In contrast, other types of cleansers often rely on strong surfactants to break down oil-based impurities. While effective, these ingredients can strip away not only excess sebum but also the skin’s natural moisture, potentially causing dryness and prompting the skin to produce even more oil as compensation. This increased oil production can lead to clogged pores and further breakouts.
By leveraging the natural cleansing power of oil, cleansing oils can be an effective choice for those struggling with acne, offering deep cleansing without disturbing the skin’s moisture balance.
Downsides of Cleansing Oils for Acne-Prone Skin
For those struggling with acne, it’s important to recognize that cleansing oils have potential downsides that should be fully understood. One primary concern for acne-prone individuals is the strong cleansing power found in some oils, which can sometimes worsen acne. However, understanding the specific characteristics of cleansing oils can help in making the right choice.
Cleansing oils are generally categorized into three main types based on the kind of oils they contain. These oil types are closely linked to both the benefits and drawbacks of each cleansing oil, particularly in terms of “cleansing strength.”
The main types are:
Hydrocarbon-Based Oils
Ester-Based Oils
Plant-based Oils
Hydrocarbon-Based Oils:
Hydrocarbon cleansing oils are formulated with ingredients derived from petroleum or coal, such as mineral oil, isohexadecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane.
Known for their strong cleansing abilities, these oils are effective at removing heavy makeup and leave a refreshing finish. Additionally, they are often used in affordable products that emphasize strong cleansing power.
While these oils work well for regular skin, those with acne should avoid them due to their powerful cleansing action, which can over-strip natural oils and prompt excess sebum production, potentially worsening acne.
Ester-Based Oils:
Esters are compounds formed by the reaction of fatty acids and alcohol, offering strong yet slightly gentler cleansing than hydrocarbon-based oils. This lower cleansing intensity reduces the burden on the skin, but ester-based oils can sometimes lead to dryness, making them a cautious choice for acne-prone skin.
Common ingredients include ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, and triethylhexanoin.
Plant-based Oils:
Extracted from plants, natural oils feature a “slightly hydrophilic” property that allows them to cleanse without removing essential skin oils. Their skin-friendly composition, similar to natural skin lipids, makes them gentle and low-irritation, providing effective cleansing while maintaining skin hydration.
Common examples include macadamia seed oil, olive fruit oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, argan kernel oil, corn germ oil, and rice bran oil.
Recent studies have also indicated that certain plant oils possess anti-inflammatory effects, which may reduce acne inflammation, and antibacterial properties that help inhibit acne-causing bacteria.
Thus, while cleansing oils offer convenience in removing makeup and sebum, their properties vary significantly depending on the ingredients. Acne-prone individuals should avoid hydrocarbon-based oils, which provide easy makeup removal but come with potentially excessive cleansing strength. Instead, consider beginning with triglyceride-based oils that strike a balance between “cleansing power” and “moisture retention,” making them an ideal option for acne management.
How to Choose the Best Cleansing Oil for Acne Treatment and Prevention
Choosing the right cleansing oil for acne treatment and prevention involves careful consideration of ingredients, formulation, and professional guidance. Here are three key points to ensure you make the best choice for your skin:
Check the Ingredient List:
In Singapore, the Health Sciences Authority (HSA) requires that all cosmetics display a complete list of ingredients, ordered by concentration. This regulation enables consumers to easily check ingredients on product packaging or the brand’s website. Because natural oils are more costly ingredients, the amount of natural oil in cleansing oils varies widely, even among products that advertise them as a primary component. If other oils are listed before natural oils on the ingredient list, it indicates that the product primarily uses these oils. As each oil type has unique properties, it’s essential for individuals with acne-prone skin to carefully review ingredient labels.
Opt for Non-Comedogenic Formulations:
When choosing a cleansing oil, look for products labeled as “non-comedogenic,” meaning that they have been verified by third-party testing to not clog pores. For acne-prone skin, non-comedogenic formulations are important because they minimize the risk of blocked pores and breakouts. In Singapore, the Acne Management Guidelines published by the Dermatological Society of Singapore recommend non-comedogenic skincare as a supportive treatment for acne management. However, it's important to note that in many countries, including Singapore, there are no official regulations governing the "non-comedogenic" label. Therefore, while this label can serve as a helpful reference, reviewing the ingredient list remains crucial.
Consult a Professional:
As discussed, achieving the right balance of “cleansing power” and “hydration” is essential for acne-prone skin, but this balance varies based on individual skin types and the severity of acne. Consulting a specialist with experience in acne treatment and care can help you find the best cleansing oil suited to your needs. Expert guidance ensures you select a product aligned with your skin’s specific characteristics, optimizing acne prevention and treatment.
Best Practices for Using Cleansing Oil on Acne-Prone Skin
For those struggling with acne, how you use a cleansing oil is just as important as choosing the right one. Here are best practices for applying cleansing oil, recommended by our skincare researchers who have studied over 20,000 Asian skin types.
Tips for Basic Use
Start with these fundamental techniques to get the most out of your cleansing oil, considering both your skin type and the properties of the oil itself.
Use the Right Amount to Minimize Friction:
Apply 3 to 4 pumps (about 3-4 ml) of cleansing oil. For a bare face, 3 pumps are sufficient; if wearing makeup or sunscreen, use 4 pumps. If 4 pumps seem too much for your palm, apply 2 pumps first, massage onto the face, then add another 2 pumps. Using too little oil can prevent thorough coverage, especially around the facial contours, potentially leaving makeup residues that may worsen acne and irritate the skin. Ample application also helps reduce friction, minimizing damage that can lead to spots or wrinkles.
Start from Areas with More Oil or Impurities:
Massage the oil for about 30 to 60 seconds, beginning from oilier areas like the T-zone. Applying oil first to areas with more buildup allows extra time for impurities to dissolve. For drier areas, such as the cheeks and the eye area, apply last to avoid over-drying. Use four fingers to gently glide the oil over the skin texture, and use two fingers in smaller areas like the nose for more targeted cleansing.
Emulsify Slowly by Adding Small Amounts of Water:
Once the oil has broken down makeup or impurities, add a small amount of water to your hands. When the oil turns a milky color, gently apply to the face to continue emulsifying. Repeat until the oil is fully emulsified, becoming milky and smooth, which helps lift away makeup and impurities without leaving any residue.
Rinse Thoroughly with Around 20 Splashes:
After emulsification, rinse about 20 times to ensure the oil and emulsified residue is thoroughly removed. Pay close attention to avoid leaving any residue on the skin.
Gently Pat Dry with a Soft Towel or Tissue:
Use a clean towel or tissue to pat the skin dry gently, avoiding any harsh rubbing. Tissues are also helpful for checking any remaining makeup traces.
Check for a Supple Finish:
After drying, check the moisture level of your skin by lightly pressing your palms to your cheeks. A well-cleansed, hydrated finish should feel soft and smooth.
Additional Tips for Enhanced Cleansing Experience
To maximize your cleansing experience, follow these extra tips to maintain proper technique.
Always Use Dry Hands and a Dry Face:
Start with dry hands and a dry face, as water contact will prematurely emulsify the oil, preventing it from fully dissolving makeup and oils.
Use Lukewarm Water for Rinsing (Around 28°C):
Rinse with lukewarm water at approximately 28°C. Too hot, and it may strip oils; too cold, and the oil may not emulsify properly.
Avoid Rinse Residue on the Hairline and Nose:
Be mindful of areas like the hairline and nose where residue can accumulate. Thorough rinsing after emulsifying ensures impurities are fully removed, preventing irritation and breakouts.
Conclusion
Understanding how to select and use cleansing oil effectively can be transformative for those struggling with acne. In this article, we explored key aspects of choosing the right cleansing oil, from identifying the root causes of acne to understanding the link between different cleansing types and their effects on acne-prone skin. We discussed the benefits and potential downsides of cleansing oils, along with practical steps to optimize their usage for the best results.
For individuals dealing with acne, selecting the right cleansing oil is a crucial part of skincare. Seeking expert advice ensures that the chosen products and methods align with your unique skin needs. At our clinic, we offer specialized acne treatments that include a comprehensive approach to cleansing routines. Our Acne Doctor works closely with each patient to design personalized treatment plans, choosing from a range of options that best suit each case. For those seeking solutions to persistent acne, we encourage consulting with our Acne Doctor for guidance tailored to your skin.
This blog post was medically reviewed by Yutaka Shimokawa.
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